This is the Official Do It Yourself area.
Feel free to send repair tips, helpful hints, or whatever you 
think might be of help to your fellow boaters!
Send any submissions HERE
Dominic has inspired me to put up this section, so we can share ideas to 
make our boating (and fixing) experience more pleasurable!

Morse Code
Submitted By 'Commander' Dom - Gothic Pearl
(Feb. 8/04)

Here's something that could save the day when nothing else will work to let others know
you're in trouble. The old tried and true Morse Code.
If  Murphy comes along for a ride one day and your engine breaks down along with other
electrical failures that prevent your VHF from working, and there's no cell phone around,
a flashlight or a sound signaling devise can be used to alert others to your problem. Even
using your navigation lights might be seen by someone. It can also be used if you have no
other means of carrying on a private conversation with another vessels in your immediate area.
Print this page and keep it on board, you just never know when you might need it.

Punctuation
Full stop (period)   .-.-.-
Comma  --..--
Colon  ---...
Question mark (query)   ..--..
Apostrophe  .----.
Hyphen   -....-
Fraction bar   -..-.
Brackets (parentheses)   -.--.-
Quotation marks   .-..-.

To indicate a mistake has been made and for the receiver to
delete the last word is ........ (8 dots)

FIRE!
Submitted By 'Commander' Dom - Gothic Pearl
(Jan. 23/04)

DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU !!

Scope (not mouthwash) is the ratio of anchor line length to the depth of water when
anchoring. Some say the ideal scope is seven to one and others say it's five to one.
The higher the scope, the more holding power your anchor will have. In any case, you must
also add the vessel's freeboard at the anchor's location.

What this means is that if you are in 10 feet of water, you'll need to let out 50 feet of line
plus the amount of freeboard to achieve a five to one scope. Surprising isn't it?

From a practical view,  most boaters determine the scope to use based on the apparent conditions. In a dead calm at an anchorage with no current, one might reduce the scope considerably as less holding power is required. The caution here is to adjust the scope
should conditions change. If you later decide to stay for the night, err on the side of caution
and let out more line before retiring for the night in case conditions take a turn for
the worse. Any time more holding power is required, be it environmental
conditions or other vessels tying up to yours for example, you must increase the scope.

Your equipment will also have an impact on the scope. The heavier your line, the less scope
you need. A length of heavy chain attached to the anchor can serve to reduce the amount
of line needed as it adds more weight and changes the angle of the line at the anchor.
A rode (anchor line) made entirely of chain is best though costly. The lower the angle of
the line is relative to your anchor, the better. It will keep your anchor's arm touching
the bottom, and that's the best angle of attack that your anchor needs to stay put.

Oh, and let's not forget to make sure that the "bitter end" of the line is secured to your boat!

With all the hype about the new synthetic oils on the market, it's easy to see why so many boaters think synthetic is the way to go for added protection. Think again.

There are a lot of good synthetic oils for automotive use but it's generally felt that petroleum based straight grade oils are best for marine engines. The synthetics are felt to have a lack of shear strength at wide open throttle or high operating temperatures associated with marine engines. Multi viscosity oils that rely on chemical reactions to simulate a more viscous oil when hot can lose their ability to perform well, and may get too thin for extreme loads and elevated temperatures. Marine engines also tend to contaminate oil quicker than automotive engines due to the higher level of contaminants usually found in marine fuel tanks, be it the vessel's or the supplier's tank, moisture being the most common. This will quickly degrade all oils but synthetics seem to break down quicker under such conditions.

For your boat, it seems you should stick to the old reliable, natural petroleum based stuff. Check the manufacturer's recommendations for the proper grade. It has also been suggested to go a little heavier if you have reason to believe there is a lot of wear in your engine. Always check your oil level and depending on the amount of boating you do, try changing your oil at least twice a season. Remember that oil gets dirty faster in a marine engine. Always change the oil and filter before laying up for the winter. This will remove acids from your engine that have been deposited in your oil as a result of combustion. These acids will eat away at various machined engine components and seals, gaskets etc.

TID BITS
Submitted By 'Commander' Dom - Gothic Pearl
(Nov. 14/03 - Updated Jan. 23/04)

COMPACT SIGNALING DEVICE
Ladies, don't throw away that "makeup compact" with a mirror in it. It makes a great daytime emergency signaling device. The compact case protects the mirror and most of these are
small enough to fit just about anywhere including an emergency kit. It's also a good idea to
keep one in your toolbox guys. They're great for helping you see blind areas around your
engine that you just can't get at.

Oil Overflow
If you've spilled oil into the bilge, don't pump it overboard or you could get fined and it's simply no good for the environment. First place oil absorbent pads in the bilge and make sure all the water in the area comes in contact with the pads. Take a short jaunt when it's a little choppy out to get the water moving around in the bilge. Remove the pads and dispose of properly, then pour some Dawn detergent into the bilge to emulsify the rest of the oil.

Moisture Madness
Leave a low wattage bulb burning in the damp areas to introduce some dry air. You can also tie a dozen sticks of chalk together and hang them in a closet or locker to help absorb the dampness. Or try putting charcoal in a plastic container and punching wholes in the cover.

Mildew Madness
Fill shallow boxes with cat litter and place them near problem areas. This is especially helpful for winter storage.

Odor Eater
Get a bag of cedar chips from a pet supply store used for hamster cages. Place some in an old nylon stocking and hang in closets and lockers. Keeps moths away too.

Rusty
Rust stains can be removed from fiberglass with cola. If it doesn't work, try mixing in some salt which acts as a mild abrasive. Rinse well.

Unglued
To remove glue left behind from tape or a decal, spray WD-40, wait a few minutes then wipe off. It may take a few tries. You can also add cornmeal, talcum powder or toothpaste as a mild abrasive.

Unplugged
If you keep perishables in your fridge while you're away from the boat for the week, it's important to be sure that the power hasn't gone off at the marina for some time and thawed freezer contents then refroze them by the time you arrive on the weekend. This could lead to food poisoning. Try this simple tip. Put a couple of ice cubes in a cup and keep it in the freezer at all times. As long as you see ice cubes in this cup, you'll know the freezer has kept its temperature even in a power failure. If you see one solid mass of ice at the bottom of the cup instead of cubes, your freezer has thawed and you should throw most of the fridge's contents away. This also serves as a monitor when out on the lake for several days and trying to keep power consumption to a minimum. Good idea to do this at home too and you'll know if the contents are still okay if the power went off while you were at the boat or elsewhere for an extended period.

Micro clean
A lot of boaters have realized how handy a microwave oven is to have aboard. A simple wipe with a wet rag is sometimes not enough to remove food baked on the walls. To keep the inside spik and span, wipe it with a wet rag then place the rag in the middle of the oven and turn it on for about 30 to 40 seconds. Now wipe the walls again. The steam generated by heating the rag should help to get most of the stubborn stuff off. Careful, the rag will be hot. 

Greaseless
Remove grease from upholstery and carpet by sprinkling liberally with salt as soon as the accident occurs. Allow salt to absorb grease then brush off. Repeat if necessary.

De-waxed
Remove wax from carpet or upholstery by folding paper towel a couple of times and placing it over the wax. Next place a warm iron on the towel for a few seconds. When you lift the iron, you'll see that the paper towel has absorbed the melted wax. You may have to do this more than once with new towels. Don't move the iron around once you place it on the towel or it'll spread the melted wax.

Gummed Up
Remove chewing gum by putting an ice cube in a plastic bag and placing it on the gum until the gum hardens. Then chip the gum away. 

Shafted
On inboard engine boats, there have been occurrences of propeller shafts pulling away from the flange at the engine and exiting the boat or at the very least exiting the packing gland. If this happens, unless you stop the water from coming through the packing gland, or have bilge pumps that can handle that amount of water for a long time (you aren't going anywhere if it's a single screw and you just lost it), you're going to sink. If your boat doesn't come equipped with a shaft retaining collar, you can rig one up yourself by purchasing the appropriately sized shaft zinc and using it as a retaining collar by placing it between the packing gland and the flange at the engine. You don't have to remove the shaft to do this as the shaft zincs are split in half and bolted together over the shaft. This will act as a collar and prevent the shaft from falling out if it comes off the engine flange.

Drained
Most fuel/water separators are fitted with a simple threaded drain plug to remove any accumulated water. To simplify draining the water, replace the plug with a brass fuel rated drain cock. It'll make life a lot easier and probably facilitate checking for water more often.

Pumped
Bilge float switches have been known to fail and result in the sinking of many a ship. As an additional safety measure and piece of mind, hook up a second float switch in parallel with the existing one. The chances of both switches failing at the same time are low but you should always check your float switches and ensure they operate properly. Remember that simply lifting the float manually by hand will only tell you that the electrical connection works, it won't tell you that the actuating arm will actually float in water on its own. For that, you need to add water. If you think this is not something you have to worry about because you have a boat that doesn't take on water, talk to an owner whose boat sank because he/she thought the same way. Remember that there are many ways for water to get in.

Last Straw
Ever try to get the red plastic spraying tube to stay on the side of a WD-40 can? Tape won't stick because the tube inevitably gets oily and an elastic works a little better but seems to break down after a while. Clean the sides of the can to get rid of all lubricant. Try folding about half an inch of one end of a straw. Now tape the straw or hold in place with an elastic to the side of the can with the folded side down. Use this to hold your plastic tube when not in use by placing your tube in the straw.

All Clear
Make your own bottom viewing bucket by cutting the bottom off a bucket (must be a flat bottom) but doing so in such a manner that you leave a one inch rim all the way around. Cut a clear piece of plastic to match the outside diameter of the bottom of the pail. Place a good thick bead of silicone on the one inch rim you left on the bottom of the pail and place the clear plastic over it. Let the silicone cure. Bottoms up!

Listen
After checking the gauge on your dry chemical fire extinguisher, always hold it up to your ear and tilt the bottle upside down. You should hear and possibly feel the chemical powder inside shifting. If you don't hear anything, this means that the chemical has settled or caked on the bottle sides. Try tapping the sides of the canister to dislodge the powder, then rotate it in all directions for a while to redistribute its contents. You should hear the powder moving around. If you still don't, even though the gauge indicates there is pressure, the extinguisher may not work if the powder is really caked up and stuck to the inside walls.

Have a light bulb that keeps burning out? Instead of just replacing it, even if it's the first time,
take a close look, there may be a reason why, and simply putting in another one without
doing a little investigating may only be a band aid solution and the problem may reoccur.
The following should apply to AC or DC bulbs found in anything from an AC fridge to
the gauges in your helm.

Always remove a suspect bulb carefully in hopes of minimizing vibration that may affect your investigation. For this article, we're going to assume that the problem is the bulb and not
a lack of power to the socket. To determine that, use a circuit tester to confirm the circuit is okay. If not, find and fix the problem.

The most common reasons why bulbs burn out are; product quality, age, power supply, temperature and vibration. The filament in the bulb (the little wire that lights up) can tell you
a lot about what happened just by looking at it. If the bulb is clear, this is easy. If it's a
frosted or coloured bulb and you can't see the filament inside, the first thing you should do
after removing the bulb carefully is to test the bulb with a continuity checker to confirm fault.
To see the filament, place the bulb with a cloth over it on a flat surface and hit it gently but
hard enough to break the glass.

Take a close look at the area of the filament that broke. If the break is clean with no blobs
on the ends, the light was most likely off when it happened and probably caused by fatigue
due to quality, old age, temperature or vibration. If there is a little blob on one or both ends
of the break, the light was on when it happened and although the fault may be a result of
the same reasons as above, it may also be due to the power supply such as a spike in the circuit, or a short in a poorly protected circuit.

Filaments are basically a coil of wire. The winding should remain fairly even over time. After
a break, if there seems to be a section that's stretched, it's usually a result of excessive
heat due to higher than normal operating temperature such as a dirty fixture, it's location/environment or too high a supply voltage.

Exploring the kind of filament failure will help determine why it keeps burning out. The bulbs you're using to replace the burnt ones . . . are they good quality? Are they fairly new? Do you store them in a vibration free area? Are the light fixtures secure or loose and vibrating while
under way? Is the area around the bulb too hot? Is the bulb a good fit in the socket?
Are the contacts on the bulb and socket clean or corroded? Is the power supply clean or are there spikes causing failure such as starting the engine while light is on? A light switch in poor condition can cause the same problem.

As you can see, there could be a bigger problem than simply a burnt bulb.

NOTE: Glass fuses display most of the same symptoms upon failure. They too are usually
made with a heat sensitive filament that will sag and look melted if the failure is a result of
too much current for too long (overloaded circuit) . A short circuit will result in metal blobs
or beads that used to be a part of the filament. A short usually displays a black
discoloration on the glass. When a short circuit is indicated, you should correct the problem
in the circuit before replacing the fuse or it'll blow again as soon as you replace it.

Should you remove your batteries during winter storage? After all, they've lasted this long without being removed and you never remove your car battery! First off, don't even compare the usage of a battery in a car to the usage of one in a boat. A car is used every day, discharging and charging the battery constantly, this is a good thing. The battery in your boat sits unused all winter long, this is a bad thing.

Without getting into all the more complicated technical stuff like specific gravity, the simple fact is that in most commonly used batteries (flooded lead acid type), the electrolyte (fluid inside made of sulfuric acid, water, and other chemicals) in a healthy, fully charged battery will not freeze until temperatures hit around 60 degrees below zero F.

Having said that, let's look at another fact. A battery that sits unused will slowly discharge. Upon doing so, the electrolyte goes through a chemical change turning more of the fluid into water. Water freezes at 32 degrees F. This is not good! In our part of the world, your battery will become a block of ice as it continues to discharge from nonuse. Once this happens, your battery is toast. Batteries on boats typically don't last as long as one in a car because they simply don't get used as often. Nonuse is a battery's enemy. So in all likelihood, after a couple of years, the ability of your boat's batteries to hold a charge is already diminished significantly thus increasing the chance of permanent damage over winter.

What can you do? If you don't want to remove your batteries, make sure they're treated properly before storage. Check fluid level and although I know you don't want to get into checking specific gravity, it is an important part of maintaining battery longevity, you should learn how to take a reading (perhaps we can cover that in another article). Clean the battery and its terminals. The best thing you can do after that is make sure you go to the boat perhaps once a week, use and charge the batteries. First turn things on that will draw a good amount of current like all the lights, play a CD etc. Do this for a while, it will help warm up the battery. Then turn on your charger and charge until the battery is brought up to full charge again. Keep in mind that cold temperatures dramatically affect the battery's ability to accept a charge. It'll take much longer to charge in winter than summer. Taking a voltage reading helps. You should have over 12 volts. Next time you go to the boat, check the voltage before you do anything. If the voltage is below 11 volts, you need to go more often and charge it up.

See you in the winter!!

The message below was sent to us - don't know how good the info is but is rather
entertaining to read! OK, mosquitos - prepare to be repelled!!!!!

Use Bounce Fabric Softener Sheets. Just wipe on & go out. 

Bob, a fisherman, takes one vitamin B-1 tablet a day April through October . He said it works.
He was right. Hasn't had a mosquito bite in 33 years.
Try it. Every one he has talked into trying it works on them.
Vitamin B-1( Thiamin Hydrochloride 100 mg.)

If you eat bananas, the mosquitos like you
(something about the banana oil as your body processes it).
Stop eating bananas for the summer and the mosquitos will be much less interested.

This is going to floor you, but one of the best insect repellents someone found (who is in the woods every day), is Vick's Vaporub.

Plant marigolds around the yard, the flowers give off a smell that bugs do not like, so plant some in that garden also to help ward off bugs without using insecticides.

"Tough guy" Marines who spend a great deal of time "camping out" say that the
very best mosquito repellent you can use is Avon Skin-So-Soft bath oil mixed
about half and half with alcohol.

One of the best natural insect repellents that I've discovered is made from the clear real vanilla. This is the pure vanilla that is sold in Mexico. It works great for mosquitoes and ticks,
don't know about other insects.

When all else fails - get a frog 

Giving a fiberglass boat stored outdoors in winter a thorough washing and
waxing at the end of the boating season helps to repel dirt during storage
and provides added protection from the sun. You should never use a
heavy-duty cleaner, unless you're planning to follow it up with a wax or
polish. Stronger cleaners, especially ones with a degreaser, will strip off
all wax and protective sealants previously applied, exposing the gelcoat.
Storing a "bare" boat is an invitation for heavy oxidation and permanent
stains.

Mildew attacks carpeting, drapes, cushions, lifejackets, clothing, plastics,
gear stashed in sealed lockers ­ anything stored in a humid environment
where mildew spores flourish and multiply.

Removing mold and mildew stains with a mildew remover or bleach solution,
gives only temporary relief. Spores remain in an inactive phase, lingering
in nooks and crannies waiting for the return of humid conditions. Mildew
preventatives seem to work only when applied every few months; if not, the
first time a humid condition exists, spore colonies sprout again. Mildew
seems nearly impossible to destroy.

CLEAN, EXTERMINATE, VENTILATE
Scrub surface to be cleaned with a specially formulated mildew remover,
bleach solution diluted 10:1 (do a test spot in an non critical area), TSP,
vinegar or whatever is your preferred cleaner of choice and a soft brush,
scrub pad or household power carpet cleaner. Spray on, wait per the label
instructions or overnight if using bleach, then rinse thoroughly with fresh
water, and let dry.

If you only clean, then close up the boat and return in a week or so, mildew
likely has reestablished. Use of chemical dehydrants, there are several
brands available, help control moisture in small lockers, but usually won't
keep the entire cabin dry. You could rent or buy an ozone generator, running
it every few months when damp. A less expensive, more compact and disposable
alternative are StarBrite's MDG Mildew Control Bags. Containing Aseptrol, a
fungi growth inhibitor, it releases trace amounts of chlorine gas that's
completely non-toxic to humans, pets, plants, fabrics or equipment. Reactive
with moisture, the more present, the more chlorine released. For best
results, replace every three months.

Ventilation is vital to controlling dampness, mildew and musty odors.
Install opening ports, cowl or mushroom vents in every compartment and at
least two solar- or electric powered vents on the cabin top, one exhaust,
one intake, for a continuous supply of fresh air. If the boat is divided
into staterooms, and if your budget allows, install a power vent in each
separate living area. Besides a fresher smelling cabin, vents eliminate
condensation build up and associated moisture problems.

On occasion, it may be necessary to install a new fuel filter system either
because the original system is outdated such as in older vessels or you wish
to retrofit with a fuel filter/water separator.

One of the main considerations when selecting a new filtering system is the
filter's flow rate. You must install a unit that will accommodate the amount
of fuel your engines require at full horsepower. To calculate the minimum
flow rate for gas engines at maximum horsepower, calculate 10% of a gas
engine's horsepower rating or 36% of a diesel engine's horsepower rating and
that will be the minimum required flow rate at maximum horsepower. For
example, if you have a 300 horsepower gasoline engine, at maximum
horsepower, it requires at least a 30 GPH (gallon per hour) Flow Rate rated filter.

The particle size filtering ability is measured in microns. This can be
anywhere from 1 micron and up. Typically, gas engines use about a 10 micron
filter and diesel engines use a much finer filter such as a 2 micron.  Some
applications use a dual filtering system where there is a primary coarse
filter (higher micron rating) for getting most contaminates followed by a
secondary finer filter (lower micron rating).

Select a filter that is designed for the type of engine application such as
gas or diesel, inboard or outboard. In general, inboard engine filters can
be used on an outboard application but never use a filter designed for an
outboard on an inboard engine. You must use a filter with a metal bowl on
inboard applications. If you have an older filter with a glass bowl inboard,
it should be replaced with a newer unit.

Finally, if you're considering retrofitting, now is the time to install a
fuel/water separator. These can be stand-alone units or a combination fuel
filter/water separator. Removing water from fuel is essential in prolonging
the longevity of your engine(s). Water will corrode internal fuel system
components and affect the operation of an engine, gas or diesel. Make no
mistake, you will get water in your fuel, either from condensation in your
fuel tanks or from the gas station.

Safe boating.

Serve as the first course or as a main course accompaniment.
Great with any barbecue meal.

ITALIAN DRESSING

Condensed chicken broth  1 cup
Cornstarch   2 tsp.
White wine vinegar  ¾ cup
Dried sweet basil   2 tsp.
Dried oregano   2 tsp.
Garlic cloves, crushed  2
Granulated sugar   1 tsp.
Broccoli florets   2 cups

Combine first 7 ingredients in medium saucepan.  Bring to a boil, stirring until 
slightly thickened. 
Stir in broccoli florets. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

Small red onion, thinly sliced 1
Medium green pepper  1
      (cut into ¼ inch slices)
Medium red pepper  1
     (cut into ¼ inch slices)
Medium yellow pepper  1
     (cut into ¼ inch slices)
Can of artichoke hearts  14 oz.
     (drained & quartered)
Can of chick peas   19 oz.
Can of flaked white tuna  6 ½ oz.
     (packed in water, drained)
Can of sliced black olives (optional)

Combine remaining ingredients in large bowl.  Add dressing.  Toss well.
Chill for several hours or overnight, stirring occasionally. 
Just before serving, stir salad and drain off dressing.

Makes 10 cups
1 Cup portion (without olives) = 99 calories; 1.3 g. total fat; 277 mg. Sodium; 8 g. protein; 15 g carbohydrate; 3 g dietary fiber.

Electrolysis is a topic all it's own. Suffice it to say that it occurs because of dissimilar metals in contact with each other in air or water but water provides a better catalyst and metals don't have to be touching. The culprit is stray currents, the source of which could be your own boat or the one beside you. Very complicated but you really need to keep on top of it or it'll do some serious damage.

A couple of things to look for about the electrolysis thing. Make sure all your sacrificial anodes on the out drive are there (see your owners manual), i.e.. a prop nut, the fin below the prop and the ones on the tilt pistons. I think a typical Merc stern drive may have over a half dozen of these that should be replaced once you see a 50% (I think) reduction in size. Make sure they are not painted.

 Probably the one mistake most people (including technicians) on inland waters make, is that of using zinc anodes in fresh water.
Zinc anodes are made for salt water applications. Check your owner's manual or the net but I'm sure you're supposed to use magnesium, yet even most inland marinas will only carry zinc. Having said that, zinc still works but not as well as magnesium in fresh water.

A common misconception most boaters have is that of Stainless Steel. Stainless Steel means: "it stains less" but, it could still stain!  Stainless Steel still contains 50% or more iron. The answer is 316 grade stainless. 316 is very acid resistant and will outlive 302/304 but it could still stain and has 15% less breaking strength than 302/304.

There are two key things to keep in mind that I can think for keeping your SS items looking new.  1) Proper maintenance, always keep SS clean and polished.
2) Never use anything other than SS fasteners for securing SS items. As with other metals, using fasteners of dissimilar metals on the item you're securing will surely cause electrolysis/corrosion.

Here's a list I use for Decommissioning and Commissioning. It helps to avoid
what could be costly oversights. Add or delete to suite your own vessels
requirements.

Here's a partial list of recommended marine wiring colour codes. Keep this
in mind when rewiring and it'll make it easier to troubleshoot problems down
the road:

Something I'm sure most of us have forgotten:

'Alpha'       'November'
'Bravo'          'Oscar'
'Charlie'          'Papa'
'Delta'          'Quebec'
'Echo'          'Romeo'
'Foxtrot'          'Sierra'
'Golf'         'Tango'
'Hotel'         'Uniform'
'India'         'Victor'
'Juliet'          'Whiskey'
'Kilo'          'X-ray'
'Lima'          'Yankee'
'Mike'          'Zulu'

Gray water overboard (from sink, shower etc.) is a topic some special interest groups have brought forth to the government more than once when it comes to boaters. Every once in a while the topic pops up again.

On studying the issue, governments found that the amount of pollutants discharged overboard by boaters was so insignificant that they'd have a hard time justifying a push for gray water containment by boaters when the biggest problem is getting industry to contain their discharges. 

Having said that, you should always use good judgment on what gets discharged overboard i.e. through your sink. Keep your bilge clean so there are no oils pumped overboard with your bilge water, for that, someone could report you to the Ministry of Environment if they see a
slick coming from your boat.

I found last summer when at a busy anchorage that boaters are cautious to avoid your anchor line at the bow but seem oblivious to the possibility that you may have a stern anchor out as well. We almost had our stern anchor line cut by someone who came fairly close to our stern not aware that we had an anchor out there also.

The drawing below is of an idea we noticed someone else using. They had a buoy attached to their stern line to identify that there was a line off the back of the boat as well. I thought this was a great idea. It also sends out a message that the immediate area between your boat and the fender is your territory and will hopefully keep unwanted people away.

Basically, an old fender is used (just a plastic cheapy). Apply a couple of red stripes using a reflective tape or paint. This helps to spot by day and reflects for those looking to anchor at night when you're already there.

Use about a 2 foot line to attach to the fender. This length depends on your draft that ultimately determines how shallow you can anchor. Bear in mind also that the stern anchor usually heads to shore and that it will be in shallower water.

Tie one end of the line to the fender and the other end to a heavy ring. You can also use a snap ring that allows you to remove the fender from the anchor line for easier storage. In any case, there must be some weight at the end of the line so it travels down the anchor line and makes the fender stand on end. A weight at the bottom end of the buoy will make it stand on end as well. Without the weight at the end that attaches to the stern line, the fender may not rest at the desired spot. The objective is to have the fender rest somewhere between the point at which your stern line enters the water and the location of your anchor. If your stern anchor is quite far from the boat and a lot of line is in the air or you're tied off to a point on shore (tree), you should tie something to the line to attract attention.

The rest is hoping other boaters will stay clear!!

Batteries, a very important topic I think is all too often overlooked. The two most frequent requests for assistance by boaters are 1) “I'm out of gas” - and - 2) “I can't crank my engine”.

A little lengthy but there is an excellent article by Arild Jensen I got off the Newmarket Power Squadron's web site (http://newmarket.cps-ecp.org/) on battery maintenance. 

Read this and you'll know more than most on the topic and perhaps realize why you may be having some battery problems. You can go to the article by clicking this link: http://newmarket.cps-ecp.org/battery_maintenance.htm

There are usually two schools of thought when it comes to gas tanks at the end of the 
season and whether you should top them up or not. One thought is leave them empty 
because it reduces weight and the possibility of having spoiled fuel come spring.
The other is to top them up.

Let's take a look at some issues:
- I really don't think the extra weight is a problem. I doubt that it'll warp the hull or 
be impossible to lift a boat with full tanks unless the marina's equipment is substandard f
or the size of boats the marina is designed to accommodate.

- Everything I've read indicates that fuel will not spoil in the length of time we have our boats 
out of the water. If you plan not using your vessel for longer than 6 months however, 
it's probably a good idea to add a fuel stabilizer product to your tank.

- Any exposed interior wall area in a tank will be susceptible to condensation over the winter. 
The less fuel in the tank, the more exposed wall area will be available for condensation 
to accumulate and there is no doubt, it will collect water.

- Fuel also acts as a lubricant in tanks. Unless you have plastic fuel tanks, eventually 
the inside of metal tanks will rust if constantly exposed to a lot of air and water. 
Don't think you can get away without worrying if you have stainless steel tanks, 
remember the article on stainless steel, it may take longer but they too will corrode.

My opinion is keep your tanks full over the winter. Prevents water accumulation and rusting 
of metal tanks. Besides, come spring you'll be ready to go and with today's volatile fuel 
prices, chances are you would have filled up in the Fall for less than the price of 
fuel in the following Spring.

Whether you have plastic or metal tanks, a fuel filter/water separator is a
good investment for your engine/s. Those of you that have them, have you
checked your filters/water separators for water yet??

Switches are identified by the number of poles (circuits) they have, and by
the number of throws (ON/OFF/ON, for example) they feature.
The most common combinations include:

SPST: Single Pole, Single Throw; turns a single circuit on and off.
SPDT: Single Pole, Double Throw; turns one of two circuits on.
DPST: Double Pole, Single Throw; turns on two circuits at the same time.
DPDT: Double Pole, Double Throw; controls two functions on two circuits.

(Edited from the "West Advisor" of West Marine)

The freeze proof ingredient in antifreeze is either ethylene glycol or
propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol makes a good antifreeze/coolant, but it's
a poison that's deadly to pets and wildlife and makes disposal problematic.
Propylene glycol (PG) is odorless, tasteless, biodegradable, and nontoxic.
While it is slightly more expensive to produce, it offers a combination of
safety and effectiveness that makes it a superior choice for marine use.

The three main applications for antifreeze are potable water systems,
winterizing non running engines, and engine antifreeze coolants. Potable
(drinking) water systems require a non-toxic antifreeze that has no harsh
chemicals. Boats with internal combustion engines need freeze and corrosion
protection during winter lay up, yet they don't need added chemicals to act
as a coolant. In addition to protecting the engine from internal damage at
cold temperatures, coolant antifreeze prevents the breakdown of
anti-corrosive additives when heated to running temperatures. These are
ideal for all engine uses during summer or winter.

No matter what type of antifreeze you choose, be sure to follow the
manufacturer's dilution ratio instructions carefully. A simple proviso: when
buying antifreeze, you are mostly paying for ethylene or propylene glycol.
Antifreezes can vary from 25% to 95% glycol content. Products that advertise
protection to -50°F may require that you use the product full strength,
while other products can be diluted with water at a 3:1 ratio and provide
the same -50°F protection. Shop carefully and remember that cheapest isn't
always the best value!

Many companies are recycling PG-based de-icing fluids from aviation use and
packing it as marine antifreeze. While we support the use of recycled
products, we feel that antifreeze (particularly potable types) should be
clean and free of possible contaminants. We recommend you use virgin PG
products whenever possible.

(Edited from the "West Advisor" of West Marine)

So, you worked hard on the weekend to get your boat nice and shiny only to
have the birds use it for target practice during the week!

Well, I refuse to stand by and let this assault from above reign over my
boat. I tried 'Hootie' the owl which seems to keep the birds from using my
slip as a thoroughfare but they still land on the decks and some choice roof
support beams.

Here's an idea I hope will help reduce the onslaught.

Get an old garden hose and cut some lengths about 18 inches long. Cut the
same amount of a heavy gauge wire - I happened to have the green plastic
coated stuff used for chain link fencing. You want a wire heavy enough to
maintain a shape. Next, insert a length of wire into one of the cut garden
hose pieces and bend it into the shape of a snake (a simple 'S' will do). Set
these on your boat and hopefully the birds will pick a different landing
site!

I threw one on my back deck, bow, fly bridge and nailed one to the top of a
support beam that stretches over my back deck which seems to be the
culprits' favorite perch. I'm pretty sure they'll stay away.

I'll let you know if the unsightly reign of terror stops!

You've nestled into a quiet little anchorage for the night and gone to
sleep. Another boater with the same idea creeps into the area looking for a
spot as well. Your anchor light is on so they should spot you no problem, right?

In my own experience, from a distance, it's difficult to distinguish an anchor light from a 
light on shore. If your anchor light fails for some reason, you're really in the dark! 
Even with a spotlight, boats aren't always easy to spot.

I want to be as visible to other boats as possible when anchored for the evening so
I've placed some reflective tape in key locations around our boat.
I find as long as someone's spotlight crosses my path, though they can't see the boat,
they'll know even at a distance that there's definitely something there 
and approach the anchorage carefully.

I placed the reflective tape on the rails at the bow, sides and aft. The idea is to place 
the tape such that a light shone from any angle will reflect off one or more locations.
Placing tape at different heights will help also. I used silver reflective tape as I 
find it's less noticeable during the day against a chrome background.

Be safe.

Being too lazy to actually compose an entire DIY submission and trying to help out my wife
who can do little more on the computer than bookmark a site, I have elected 
to pass along a link to some interesting 'Knot Knowledge'. Not kidding. 

Follow THIS LINK to find out a whole wealth of information about nautical knots. 
Be sure to look at the 'Knots To Know' page.

Oatmeal Raisin or Chocolate Chip Cookies

Cream butter, sugar, egg, water and
vanilla together on medium speed of electric mixer until light and
fluffy.
Combine flour, soda, and cinnamon. Add to creamed mixture,
beating on low speed until blended. 
Stir in oats and raisins or chocolate chips. 
Drop dough by heaping tablespoonful onto greased
baking sheets.
Press flat for crisp cookies, or leave mounded for chewy
cookies.
Bake at 350 F for 12-15 minutes, or until edges are golden
brown. Don't over bake!
Makes about 30 cookies.

Filling: In a bowl, mix together blueberries, sugar, flour, lemon
juice and cinnamon, pour over crust.
Bake in preheated oven for 15 min.
Reduce temperature to 350F., bake 20 to 25 minutes
longer.
Cool on rack. Refrigerate for a least 1 hour, before serving.

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